The mysterious chessboard on Genoa's San Lorenzo Cathedral

Jun 16, 2022 · SP International

A chessboard hidden in the facade of Genoa Cathedral

Genoa's Cathedral of San Lorenzo stands in the old town with its distinctive striped stone facade and Gothic portals. The cathedral has changed through the centuries, and attentive visitors may discover details that are easy to miss among its architectural decorations.

On the left-hand side, several metres above the ground, there is a curious red-and-white chessboard. Its precise origin is debated, and different local tales offer imaginative explanations.

The Templars and the meaning of chess

One interpretation links the design to the Knights Templar. In this reading, the contrast of light and dark squares symbolises the struggle between good and evil, while the chess pieces evoke the individual's journey through obstacles and choices. This is an interpretation rather than a proven explanation of the decoration.

The merchant Megollo Lercari

Another story connects the chessboard to Megollo Lercari, a medieval Genoese merchant said to have played chess while visiting the Black Sea region. A dispute during a game allegedly led to a bitter conflict. The tale combines Genoa's mercantile history with the symbolism of chess.

Regardless of which explanation visitors prefer, the small chessboard is an invitation to look carefully at one of Genoa's most famous monuments.